Cost of Living in Essaouira

The medina is where most nomads settle, and for good reason. Its car-free alleys are filled with riads and traditional dars that have been converted into atmospheric apartments, many featuring original zellige tilework and carved cedar ceilings. A furnished studio inside the medina rents for 2,500-4,000 MAD ($250-400) per month on a local contract, while a one-bedroom apartment runs 3,500-5,500 MAD ($350-550). Fully restored riad apartments with rooftop terraces command 5,000-8,000 MAD ($500-800). Airbnb monthly rates skew higher at 5,000-9,000 MAD ($500-900) for a one-bedroom, though negotiating directly with hosts for multi-month stays often yields discounts of twenty to thirty percent. The Kasbah quarter near the ramparts offers sea views and a slightly quieter atmosphere at comparable price points.

Essaouira's food scene is one of Morocco's most rewarding, shaped by its Atlantic coastline and relaxed medina culture. For budget-conscious nomads, the port-side grill stalls near Skala du Port are legendary: buy a bag of fresh sardines, prawns, and calamari for 40-60 MAD ($4-6), hand it to a grillman who cooks it for just 30 MAD ($3), and enjoy a feast for under 100 MAD ($10) per person. Inside the medina, small family-run restaurants serve chicken tagine with preserved lemons for 45-60 MAD ($4.50-6), vegetable couscous for 30-40 MAD ($3-4), and hearty bowls of harira soup with msemen flatbread for as little as 20-30 MAD ($2-3). Street food vendors along Avenue de l'Istiqlal offer brochettes, fried fish sandwiches, and stuffed msemen for 10-25 MAD ($1-2.50), making it easy to eat well on a shoestring.

Grocery shopping in Essaouira splits between modern supermarkets and the vibrant souks of the medina, and savvy nomads learn quickly that mixing both yields the best value. Carrefour Market, located just outside the medina walls near Bab Doukkala, is the most accessible chain store and stocks local and imported products including cooking oils, pasta, canned goods, dairy, and hard-to-find items like almond milk or European cereals. A liter of milk runs about 7 MAD ($0.70), a 500g loaf of bread costs 5-6 MAD ($0.55), a dozen eggs are 15-18 MAD ($1.50-1.80), and a kilogram of chicken breast goes for 45-50 MAD ($4.50-5). Imported goods carry a steep markup, so a box of branded cereal or jar of peanut butter can cost 50-70 MAD ($5-7), matching or exceeding European prices.

Most digital nomads reach Essaouira via Marrakech, as Essaouira-Mogador Airport (ESU) only handles limited seasonal flights from a handful of European cities including London and Paris. The reliable option is flying into Marrakech Menara Airport and taking a Supratours bus, which departs seven times daily between 7:45am and 7:00pm. The journey takes roughly three hours with a comfort stop, and tickets cost 100-140 MAD ($10-14 USD) per person depending on the departure time. CTM operates a single daily departure at 8:30am for a similar fare, though its Essaouira drop-off is less convenient than Supratours, which stops right beside the medina walls. Grand taxis offer a faster alternative at around 80-100 MAD ($8-10 USD) per seat, but you share with five other passengers and the ride can feel cramped. Private transfers run about 750 MAD ($75 USD) for one to four passengers door-to-door, taking around two and a half hours on the N8 highway.

Essaouira's internet infrastructure has improved considerably in recent years, though it still lags behind larger Moroccan cities like Casablanca and Marrakech. Fixed-line ADSL connections are widely available and deliver speeds between 4 and 20 Mbps, which is adequate for video calls and standard remote work. Fiber optic service from Maroc Telecom has begun rolling out in parts of the city, offering 100 Mbps plans starting at 500 MAD ($50 USD) per month, but coverage within the medina remains limited due to the historic building infrastructure. Most riads and guesthouses provide WiFi included in the rent, though speeds typically hover around 5-15 Mbps and can slow noticeably during evening hours when guests stream video. For reliable connectivity, a mobile data backup is essentially mandatory for any serious remote worker based here.

Essaouira's healthcare improved significantly with the 2024 opening of the Mogador International Clinic by the Akdital Group, a 256-million-dirham private facility with 166 beds, eight operating rooms, cardiovascular and neonatal units, and an oncology center with radiotherapy. This clinic brings specialist care that previously required a three-hour drive to Marrakech. The public Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah Provincial Hospital handles emergencies, imaging, surgery, and outpatient consultations at low cost, though wait times run long and facilities are basic by Western standards. For everyday issues, private general practitioners charge 100-200 MAD (10-20 USD) per visit, making routine care remarkably affordable.

Essaouira's famous trade winds define the visitor experience, blowing strongest from June through August with gusts reaching 25 knots. If you kitesurf or windsurf, this is paradise and April to October offers consistent conditions along the beach south of the medina. For everyone else, September and October are the sweet spot with warm days around 25-26 degrees Celsius, calmer winds, and fewer tourists. The annual Gnaoua World Music Festival in late June transforms the city into a vibrant celebration of Gnaoua spiritual music fused with jazz and world genres, drawing thousands to free concerts at Place Moulay Hassan. Book accommodation well ahead as the city fills up completely. Winter from December to February is mild, quiet, and ideal for focused remote work with fewer distractions and lower riad prices.